Up-cycled Radio Shell Wedding Card Box

Ok ladies. How many of you have things that have been sitting in your garage for months (or years…ahem) that you keep meaning to get around to but are maybe also slightly intimidated by?

My hand is in the air right along with you. I’ve been toting this rusty, busted up radio to shows with me all summer (and listening to my husband tell me to trash it every time he saw it or moved it). I pulled it out of an old house in Utica when Charlotte was a baby, and my ideas for it have gone through several revisions in my head.

Until Christina needed a card box for her wedding last month, however, I had no motivation to actually get it finished. And, of course, I waited until basically the last minute (the Monday before the event) to get it done. I took plenty of photos along the way, because there was no way that I wasn’t sharing this major triumph with all of you.

Here’s my vintage radio shell upcycled into an adorable wedding or shower card box:

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This piece was disgusting. I’m talking it was caked in several layers of grime. The house where I found it had been basically abandoned for twenty years, and everything in it was really, really dirty. I’m pretty sure that there were various animals living in it when the grandson finally got around to cleaning the house out and putting it up for sale.

Most of the radio’s guts were long gone, and what was left was really rusty and basically impossible to salvage. To be honest, when I saw this thing laying in the front yard of that Utica house, I probably should have just left it there, but I was drawn to the shape and the details on the front—there’s just something so romantic about an old radio to me. So I tossed it in my van and saved it from being trashed.

Fast forward three years.

The first thing I did was spray it down with the hose to wash the first layer away of dirt away. I still ended up with several rounds of super dirty rags before it approached some semblance of being clean.

I used my jigsaw with a metal blade to get rid of the guts of the radio before the final wipe down.

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There were obviously some sharp edges left over, but the screws holding this metal ring in place were still there, which made a future step much easier than I thought it would be–more on that later. I left the sharp edges for now, since I wasn’t messing around inside the radio much. I figured I’d sand them down a bit later, or else tape over them if they seemed too threatening.

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I had to glue a few of the little pieces back on, and then I gave it a few coats of Rethunk Junk in Cotton. I know what you’re thinking—no Annie Sloan? Girls, I’m loving Rethunk Junk right now for certain pieces, and this was one of them. I also used this paint on my newly redone kitchen table and some of my chairs, and I love the cleaning product, paint and sealer, especially for a piece like my table, which gets a lot of traffic every day.

With Annie Sloan, I really feel like these old pieces with the deteriorating finish are going to bleed really bad through lighter color paints like Old White, but the prep product for Rethunk Junk seems to sear all of that stuff away pretty well. There is a small brown spot on the front of the radio that came through the paint, but I distressed it in that area and it doesn’t really show up super dark. I might do a compare and contrast post for these two paints at some point in the future, because there is a lot more that I want to say, but I’ll leave it at that for now.

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For the card slot, I drilled a hole in the top of the radio and then used my jigsaw again to cut a rectangular hole across the top of one side. What the photos don’t show is that, like a dummy, I did this while the paint was still wet on the other side of the box…yeah, that’s right. I’m a total spaz. I would just say that I was so excited to finally be putting this together that I just couldn’t help myself, but really, it’s probably that I just wasn’t thinking. At all.

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I used my jigsaw to cut a piece of wood for the back, and then cut that piece into three pieces for the top, the side, and the door.

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Remember how I said that the little metal ring on the inside still had the screws in it, and how they weren’t rusted past recognition? That made it super easy to remove the bits of old fabric that were still hanging on around the edge of the speaker, cut a little circle of this vintage lace that I’ve also had for years, and then put the metal circle right back over it to hold the new fabric in place.

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Now that it’s over, I have no idea why this project was so intimidating to me. It could be that I didn’t really have much to go off of when I was putting this together–I couldn’t really find a tutorial or a photo for inspiration anywhere, like I often do when I’m up-cycling or building a piece for a customer.

I was surprised at how smoothly the whole thing went, too–I didn’t really hit a snag like I often do with other projects, and the metal ring made what I thought would be the hardest part into what was actually the easiest part.

The card box fit in perfectly with the rest of the decor–it was even more adorable than I thought it would be. The last thing I did was use my Cricut to make a Kraft paper and twine “cards” banner for the front of it.

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I’m not sure what I’m going to do with the box now that the wedding is over. I halfway want to keep it, but honestly, what am I going to use it for? The occasional wedding? Every party that I ever throw from now on? My practical mind is telling me that I should just list it in my Etsy shop and let it go, but my emotional mind is telling me that I’ve held on to it this long, and worked so hard on it, and that I’ll probably use it again someday…

Decisions, decisions.

Now it’s your turn. Tell me about that project that you had (or have) sitting around for years before you finally got around to it. Why did you wait so long? How did it turn out? Was it easier or harder than you imagined? Did you do it for yourself, or for someone else, and do you still have it today?

Thanks for reading!

Talk soon,

Jess

 

 

DIY Vintage Suitcase Craft Show Display Piece

Hey friends! I’ve had so much fun with this series, and I want to shift just a little today to talk about a recent display piece that I finished for my craft show booths, upcycled from a vintage suitcase. Still in the vein of craft show how-to’s, but a little more specific, I suppose. Booth design seems like it should be a huge thing for me, but I struggle with it, especially with all of my big pieces. I just want to paint furniture and throw it in the booth (and then carry it back out)–and I don’t always think carefully about my booth or table design. I’m always trying to get better, though, and designing small elements like this suitcase display is one of them.

I’ve talked a lot about how I hate having little pieces scattered all over my furniture, and this summer I’ve been trying hard to come up with unique ways to display my smaller items so that the furniture in my booth doesn’t have to serve as a prop for my other pieces.

I really like the way that this piece helped to showcase some of my smaller items, and I’ve been positioning it right at the back of my tent in an effort to draw customers into my booth and get a conversation going. People almost always ask about the journal covers once they’ve noticed them, and it’s fun to talk about how much I love books and creating art out of old, forgotten ones. It’s rare for me to pass up a bookshelf at an estate sale without at least looking it over, and I’m a huge sucker for antique books.

It’s been a while since I’ve created a piece specifically for display—in fact I want to say that the last one I designed was almost four years ago, when I first started doing shows. I didn’t build that one—my brother did—but it was a tall lattice frame that we used to hang wreaths and signs on. I can’t remember when we stopped using it, but it might be time to figure out how to get that piece back in the rotation. I’d love to be able to display my MI signs more effectively.

Anyway, on to the DIY vintage suitcase display:

 

I picked up this handmade wooden suitcase at a killer estate sale in my mom’s neighborhood earlier this summer, and I had it for sale at a couple of vintage markets before I decided that I was going to keep it and use it for something awesome. The display I created with it worked out really well at Sterlingfest, and I was super excited for how I’d be able to use it for the rest of the year’s events, as well.

There are several small items that I make using upcycled vintage books, and I’ve been wanting to showcase them somehow for a while now, so I went in that direction with this display piece. I wanted to try and get my keychains, necklaces, journal covers, and coasters all in one spot.

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This suitcase looked like it was made in shop class or something, by M. W. H. in 1977. I was going to paint the whole thing, but I didn’t really want to cover this up, because it feels kind of special to me, and no one is really going to see this side of the display anyway. So I left the outside as is. The inside still needed to be painted eventually—I wanted it to be bright and clean so that my items would really stand out against a neutral backdrop.

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The first thing I did was attach some hooks to the top of the skinny side and to the top of an old chalkboard sign I had left over from a baby shower I styled last year. I would have just painted a chalkboard section on the inside of the suitcase lid, but it wouldn’t have been smooth enough, because the top and bottom of the suitcase was made from an old piece of paneling or something, and it has these deep grooves in it:

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I almost rethought this project when I realized that my original vision for the chalkboard section wouldn’t work, but I actually really like the fact that the chalkboard sign is a separate thing. I think it adds a little more dimension to the piece, and it’s a lot easier to change the wording of the sign mid-show if I never need to if I can just unhook the sign and leave the rest of the display set up. If the chalkboard was painted on the back of the actual suitcase, it would be a lot more awkward to try and change it (with any kind of legible writing) without laying the whole thing down flat and totally disrupting the booth.

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I put another row of hooks in a line under the chalkboard sign for the key chains and necklaces. The paneling was pretty thin, so I just screwed them in by hand. The first few poked through the front of the suitcase, so I had to feel out how far to put them in without pushing through to the other side every time. I didn’t use a ruler or anything to make the line of hooks perfectly straight, which I probably should have done, but hey, nothing’s perfect, right?

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On the deeper side, I knew I wanted to do a shelf for some of the coasters at the top, and then leave the bottom for the journal covers. I didn’t buy anything special to make the shelf—I just used a scrap piece of molding that I had sitting around on my workbench. I put a couple of screws in from the sides for that, and then I was pretty much done with putting it together the way I wanted it.

The inside needed a few coats of Old White in order to be fully covered, so that took a couple of days to dry. My garage was so full of furniture ready for Sterlingfest that I couldn’t really work on big pieces anyway, so I had to spend my time getting little things ready. I was also working like crazy on my fairy wands, if you remember.

Here’s the photo of my completed and stocked DIY Vintage Suitcase Display:

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During shows, I also prop a second chalkboard under the key chains with the individual prices of these pieces, since I don’t usually bother to tag all of my smaller items, and I add two more hooks on either edge of the inside lid for the necklaces, since the chains for those are too long to hang on the same hooks as the key rings.

I love making the vintage dictionary coasters using the large engravings of insects, flowers, and plants, but I never sell as many of those as I do the Michigan map coasters—I don’t think I’ve ever done an event where I haven’t sold out of those. I’m always on the lookout for vintage and MI maps when I go to estate sales—just another one of my obsessions, I guess.

This piece is ideal for almost everything except the coasters–that top shelf is just too small to hold anything other than two sets, so I still end up having to pile the coasters around the bottom and to the side of the display, which is mostly fine. I’m almost to the bottom of my current box of tiles, so maybe once my current inventory runs out, I’ll take a break from making them for a while so that I can figure out a better display.

Thanks for reading, friends! Have a great weekend!

Talk soon,

Jessie

 

DIY Fairy Wands

 

Today I want to share my latest distraction/obsession/way to avoid the more mundane aspects of being a creative entrepreneur. I really should have been working like crazy last week to finish up some bigger pieces for Sterlingfest. Instead, I obsessively made these fairy wands for three days. It’s what I love and what I hate about being a creative entrepreneur all in one crazy fun activity.

I struggled to title this post, because it’s about more than just DIY fairy wands. I thought about calling it “DIY Distraction,” or “Why I Love What I Do,” or even “What I do When I’m Avoiding ‘Work,’” but I figured a focus on the DIY would be easiest to start off with.

I also struggled with this post a little bit because it almost seems off-brand (more on that in a later post), but the truth is, it might just be what pushes me to expand what I do a bit more. On the surface, especially to me, that sounds like the worst thing ever because I feel like I already have way too much going on, but I think more children’s items in my particular style have the potential to really round out my products in an organic way.

I love making children’s items. Remember how I didn’t get into the DIY home décor stuff until I was married with a house? Well, I never thought much about children’s items until I had a baby. Then I started making all of this stuff for Charlotte—car seat snuggly, baby blankets, bibs, burp cloths, hair bows, painted nursery furniture—and it was all so adorable and lovely that I made a bunch of it to sell at shows and in my Etsy shop.

My baby line did really well, too, but for some reason, I got tired of the items almost as soon as they were made. I hate having little items scattered all over my larger pieces—it always makes me feel like I’m saying to my customers “here, focus on these little things,” when what I really want to showcase is my furniture. Smaller items are important at shows—if there is something small that a customer can pick up and hold in their hand, even if they don’t buy it, the chances are they’ll stay in your booth longer, and the longer they stay, the more likely they are to buy something, place a special order, or at least sign up for my email list. So the little items are super helpful–I just don’t want them piled all over my bigger pieces. Hopefully this display we’ve been working on will help with that this summer:

 

Anyway, what you’re really here for is DIY fairy wands, right? Sorry about the detour we took getting here.

The seed of this project appeared with the advent of the Rochester Explorer’s Club, which Charlotte and I signed her up for during Sidewalk Sales this year. I love downtown Rochester, as you all know from reading my About page, and I feel like they are always coming up with awesome things for the community to do. The Explorer’s Club basically consists of an adventure guide that has a bunch of suggestions for activities (a little like scouts, but less involved), and you go around town collecting badges for each activity that you complete.

One of the first ones that caught my eye was sponsored by Haig’s jewelry store (incidentally, this is the jewelry store that made my wedding ring for me, so that’s fun), and the activity consisted of designing and making your own fairy wand and then bringing it in to the store to cast a spell and claim your badge. As soon as I read it, I got inspired with this project—I knew it was something Charlotte would love doing and could help me with most of.

I already had a bunch of wooden dowels in the garage leftover from some chalkboard signs I made for a baby shower last year that would be perfect for the wand part. I let Charlotte pick out a color for the wand first, and set her to work painting that. I have this little bucket of paint samples in my paint cabinet, and she’s always pulling that out asking to help with projects, so I let her pick one from there, and she of course chose blue. Perfect for a fairy wand.

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The next thing I did was go through this amazing bag of vintage fabric scraps that I bought at a garage sale earlier this summer (it was supposed to be listed on Etsy as craft supply by now, but I’m sure I’ll get there). I am a sucker for fabric, friends. I can’t resist an adorable vintage print. I’m not even a huge sewing person—that is just not my gift—but I buy SO. MUCH. FABRIC. At least I know my limits with it, and I know what I can do. In this case, I knew the star on top of the fairy wand needed to be made from one of these gorgeous fabrics, sewn and stuffed to give it a little dimension. I could do that.

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I pulled out a bunch of fabric in blues and let Charlotte choose which one she liked best. While the stick part was drying, we went inside, found a star outline online, and printed it out to use as a pattern. Charlotte did some coloring while I cut out the two stars and sewed them together, then I put her back to work getting the stuffing in while I pulled out my HUGE ribbon collection. I’m the kind of sick freak who saves the ribbon and rope handles off shopping bags, so I have a lot of ribbon (though I have a lot less after making 45 fairy wands!!). It’s basically a disaster.

Once the star was stuffed, the stick was dry and we put the whole thing together. I used hot glue to attach the star to the top of the wand, wrapped two skinnier ribbons around the wand underneath it, and then tied a larger ribbon underneath the star over the two skinnier ones. I probably should have secured the bow and ribbons with a bit more hot glue (lesson learned for the later versions), because after about 30 seconds of what passes for spell casting when you’re three, the bow had already come halfway undone. By that time, of course, she was way too attached to it to give it back to me to fix, so I just had to wait until she got tired of it to fix it. Luckily, we got a good picture before the unraveling happened. Look how proud she is:

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Thanks Rochester Explorer’s Club. Seriously, though, I was just as giddy. It was a super fun project and I wanted to do more. Like, forty-five more. Which I did over the next three days. The only thing I changed about the subsequent wands was the size of the star—I felt like I made the one for Charlotte’s wand a bit too small, so for the next 45 wands I just made it a bit bigger—about four inches across, which ends up being more like 3-3.5 inches when it’s sewn and stuffed.

Since I didn’t take step by step photos when we were making Charlotte’s wand (totally didn’t anticipate this becoming a thing, friends), here are some step by step photos of different wands throughout the process:

Step 1: Cut and Paint the Dowel: The wand handles are 1/4” dowels cut to about 19” long. I used chalk paint for the wand because I have it and I love it and I’m trying to use some old stuff up, but obviously anything would work. I like the idea of staining them, too, for a more woodland fairy look–maybe for the next show. Dark stained wood with white fabric and ribbons?? Get out. So pretty. If you do one like that, leave a photo in the comment or on my Facebook page for sure. I want to see it!!

Step 2: Choose a Fabric and Cut Out Your Star: I just doubled the fabric, pinned the pattern to it, and cut it out (see above links for the star I used. I copied and pasted it into Paint and adjusted the size until I was happy–again, the star was about 4″ across when I started sewing):

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Step 3: Sew the Star Together: Right sides together, begin sewing at about the middle of one of the arms of the star—you want the opening you leave to be right in the middle of two of the points, so make sure that you start with the end in mind. I back-stitched a couple of times at the beginning and the end, since I was turning this inside out:

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Step 4: Turn the Star Inside Out and Stuff: I used the eraser end of a pencil to help push the star points out gently, and just regular Poly-Fil to stuff the stars:

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Step 5: Attach Star to Wand with Hot Glue: I folded the edges of the star under as best I could to conform with the rest of the seam, and then stuck a little dot of hot glue inside, twisting the wand as I pushed it in to spread the glue around the whole opening, and then pinching the fabric against the wood to hold it in place until it cooled:

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Step 6: Attach Ribbons: I liked the look of the three ribbons, but this is the part where you can really get as crazy as you’d like. When I cut the skinnier ribbons, I just made sure that they weren’t the same length, and that they weren’t exactly centered when I put them together, either. I liked the imperfect look for these. When I tied the larger ribbon on, I did the same thing—I made the thicker ribbon a bit shorter than the other two, and if the two sides ended up the same length, I just trimmed one slightly:

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Part of the reason I went with three is because I had a lot of ribbon to use up, and part of it is that I like odd numbers for things like this.

Here’s my fairy wand display ready for Sterlingfest 2017:

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Pricing these was a little hard for me, because I got really attached to the different fabrics and designs as I went. I’m also a sucker for vintage lace and trim, and as I developed this design, I broke out some of that, as well. I get paralyzed sometimes when it comes to using some of my materials—my thought is always, Is there a better project that I could have used this on? And the answer is, probably, but who knows when that project will come along and what I might find in the meantime? Basically, self, chill out. It’s just pink floral vintage trim. It’s not brain surgery.

When I asked Dan about it, he was like “Yeah, I’d pay $5 in a heartbeat for one of those for Charlotte.” I was shocked and a little offended for half a second, but I followed his suggestion. While he’s not my ideal customer, Sterlingfest, in particular, is a family event, and dads are likely to be involved in the shopping on their way to doing other activities with their kids.

The pricing strategy ended up working out really well–I put the wands out in front of the tent on the kids table I had on display (until it sold on Friday, anyway) for Sterlingfest, and it was the perfect height for getting them right in front of the kids. I had a few teenagers even look at them and purchase a few, which I maybe should have expected, so that was really fun. The mason jars with the wands sticking out were the only small items I put out on the furniture–the rest of the small stuff was in the back of the tent on our display rack and checkout table.

The wands were inexpensive enough that most parents didn’t think twice about picking one up; as an added bonus, I could easily give them away to kids whose parents bought bigger pieces from me, which was really fun, too.

I hope you have a lot of fun making your own DIY fairy wand! Let me know how it turns out in the comments, and if you have a project you’d like to share, email me at metrodetroitmaker@gmail.com. I’d love to hear from you!

Talk soon,

Jessie

DIY Farmhouse Chalkboard Mail Organizer

 

Hey everyone! Today I want to switch things up a little and offer you an easy thrift store DIY that is one of my top sellers in my Etsy shop—people LOVE these and they are so simple to make. I’ll give you the steps in an easy to follow format along with the tips I’ve discovered as I’ve redone over 60 of these in the past three years. I just went back through my shop to count how many I’ve sold there—I told you they were popular!

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These three slot mail boxes don’t generate a lot of interest sitting on the thrift store shelf, but I am always super excited to find them because I have a simple redo that takes them from dated to farmhouse fresh. I usually find them at garage sales and thrift stores, priced anywhere from $0.25 to $3.99.

Step 1: Wash your piece. I use a mixture of hot water and Murphy’s Oil Soap to clean all the furniture and wood projects that I do. The mail boxes are kind of annoying to clean because of all the little crevices, but cleaning is an important step, especially when you’re about to use white paint. Dirt, grease, and other debris show up really easily under the white so I give these things an extra good scrub. Always let your piece dry completely before applying paint.

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Step 2: Apply white paint.  It might seem silly to use Chalk Paint on smaller pieces, but I like Annie Sloan’s paint so much that I literally use it on everything—I used to be a lot more open to trying new paints and products, but I’m so super in love with her brand that it takes a lot now for me to branch out and actually pick up a new product. I won’t say I don’t do it, but I will say that nothing comes close to her paint. I’ve even used it on the cupboards in my laundry room, and they still look amazing four years later.

If you haven’t tried AS Chalk Paint and you don’t want to buy a huge can for a small project like this, it does come in sample sizes, and those small guys will give you enough paint for 2-3 of these projects (at least). Sounds like a good excuse to open a bottle of wine and have a little DIY mailbox painting party with a couple of your friends! I buy mine at Nada and Co. in Royal Oak, but if you’re in Macomb County, you can also get it at Country Comforts in Romeo (at the Frontier Town shops).

Anyway, back to the project. I always start with a very light coat using a natural bristle brush for my projects, and these are no different. Chalk paint dries very quickly, so once you’re done with this coat, go watch an episode of Gilmore Girls and drink some more wine. By the time it’s over, you’ll be ready to check the progress. You should be good to go for your second coat (depending on the look you want and how dark the wood is, you may want to do three coats for full coverage—I find that AS Old White and Pure White often take 3 coats to make me perfectly happy, especially on dark wood).

Step 3: Wax the mailbox. Once the paint is dry, I wax the mailbox at this point. Wax helps to seal the paint and protect the finish against grease, moisture, and fingerprints. I use AS clear wax, but any clear furniture wax will do. Side note: “natural” is not the same as clear (Minwax has a “natural” shade)—it will yellow the paint a bit. It’s still a good look, and I sometimes use Minwax’s natural furniture wax, but just be aware that the paint will look slightly yellow.

Once upon a time I didn’t wax the mailboxes at this point—I used to do the chalkboard paint next—but waxing after the chalkboard paint is dry means having to be really careful to keep it off that chalkboard area so as to avoid gumming up that surface and making it impermeable to the chalk, which defeats the whole purpose. I probably did about 45 of these things before figuring out that waxing the mailbox first was way easier.

I let the wax sit overnight and then buff it with a brush or cotton cloth before moving on to the next step. The brush you see in the photos is my buffing brush—this is another product that it took me a long time to invest in, but it’s seriously so much easier than using a cotton cloth.

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Step 4: Tape off the chalkboard squares. I put tape along the top edge and sides, and then usually use another small piece of tape or two to help me space the bottom piece, like so:

Press down hard on that tape—make sure you get out any bubbles around the edges!

I’m using pretty skinny tape here, so I used two pieces to help space the bottom edge. One of the reasons why I wait until the wax has cured slightly is that applying the tape to a freshly waxed mailbox tends to make the tape bubble, which will make the next step harder.

Step 5: Paint a square of white over the tape. Get that white paint on one more time, making sure to drag that brush along the edges very carefully.

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This is my trick to avoid seepage of the chalkboard paint—the white paint acts as a seal, getting underneath the edges anywhere where a tiny bubble might be lurking, waiting to ruin your project with ragged edges. Once this layer of paint dries, you should be able to achieve crisp lines all the way around your chalkboard squares.

Step 6: Paint your chalkboard squares. Using a foam brush or roller (this helps the chalkboard paint lay a little more smoothly than the chip brushes do), get two coats of Rustoleum Chalkboard Paint on top of your squares (in this photo, the paint looks streaky because I’ve only done one coat so far). I’ve tried a couple of different chalkboard paints, and this one is my fave:

Step 7: Remove the tape. This one might seem like a no-brainer, but just be careful with it. I’ve tried to take all the tape off at once, and sometimes the edge of your chalkboard square can rip just a little bit—like so:

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Then you have to get out your detail brush and practice straight lines, which could be really difficult, depending on how much wine you’ve had by this point. I slowly pull the tape away from the paint, trying not to drag away from or towards the chalkboard, but instead to pull straight up.

Final steps:

  1. Distress (if desired). Even though the wax has already been applied, you can still remove paint with a fine grit sandpaper along the edges if you like that look. I pretty much always do this—most of my shop has the shabby chic look going on.
  2. Prep the chalkboard squares. I rub the long side of the chalk stick against the squares and rub the chalk in with my fingers to “season” it—this helps to prevent the first word you write from leaving an imprint that’s basically un-erasable later.
  3. Label your slots. For my product photos, I usually write in things like “mail,” “bills,” “coupons,” “misc.,” or “invites.” My trick is to use a thick pencil sharpener to sharpen my chalk stick so that the letters look like an adult woman wrote them and not a six year old child.

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You’re getting a sneak peek at the “studio” process behind my Etsy photos–I love using other vintage items to pair with my pieces, like the antique parts of speech art, skeleton keys, and letter bundles. I found an entire box of old, hand-written letters at an estate sale a few years ago, and there’s just something so romantic about them–I have no idea what to do with them except take beautiful photos!!


This project is one of my favorites because it’s so simple, the materials are readily available (it doesn’t usually take much hunting to find these wood letter organizers at the thrift stores around here), and the transformation looks amazing and fits perfectly with most farmhouse and shabby chic decor.

My customers have hung these in kitchens, offices, and pantries to help get the clutter off of their counters and into a more organized space, and they love the fact that this storage solution fits in wonderfully with a shabby chic or modern farmhouse look while being super practical at the same time.

If you’re not sold on the DIY version you can always take a peek in my Etsy shop (if you don’t see any there, just shoot me a convo and I’ll get working on one for you—I’m regularly sold out of these) and find this little guy (or one just like it). If you’re in metro Detroit, just let me know and I’ll give you a code for free shipping. You can sometimes get them at our shows, too—if you’re looking for one just send me a message letting me know which shows you’ll be attending and I can make sure to bring one or two along with me!

If this tutorial is helpful or if you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment below, and post your farmhouse mailbox DIY on my Facebook page or on Instagram using the #metrodetroitmaker. I’d love to see all of the projects and where you decide to hang them in your homes!

Thanks for hanging out this week! Talk soon,

Jessie